Bali & Gilis
Why Bali?
Ah the intrigue of island culture. Tiny island culture.
Bali and its mini proxies the Gilis serve a melting pot of hybrid island culture and are extremely nuanced in terms of it. If you also want an environment that’s familiar to the Western cultural palette while retaining genuine island vibe, Bali is the nexus of these things.
So how did Bali become such an epicenter of bohemian rhapsody? So fleshed out in these ways?
People hear of and venture to it from all over the globe…it has a seemingly evergreen intrigue, a friend recently moved back there from LA, it’s that that.
(Cover Image by Lachlan Rennie)
Tegalalang Rice Terrace of Ubud, Image by Radoslav
Bali is ever popular via Ubud, a village upland made of robust arts, culture, and food. While its beaches and the Gili Islands south and off-island are also what compel people for visitations.
An interesting aspect of Bali is that it’s primarily Hindu, unlike the mostly Muslim rest of Indonesia. It’s actually one of the only places aside from India with Hinduism at the helm. Perhaps it’s this reprieve from Western life in a small expanse that Bali delivers. Or maybe it’s that it’s ultimately modern with a twist, an embrace of Balinese roots with a welcoming warmth that makes it appealing to outsiders.
Here are the things I think make Bali worth it.
Shallow and long low waves of Kuta, Image by Yazan Tabaza
Activities
Image by Georgy Trofimov
Monkey Forest
Monkey Forest is synonymous with Ubud. The forest is a famous walk-through with monkeys that populate the forest in droves. Not tame, not totally wild. What makes the forest meaningful is that it was a temple before becoming a destination. Now it stands to represent the local culture and the monkeys themselves are mascots of that as well. The place is an experience, it feels very Bali. What can I say, you’re in the middle of a forest that feels part jungle and definitely imbibed with ancient spirits’ energy.
Kuta
Kuta is about 1 hour from Ubud. It’s touristy, think kiosks and petit shops that sell statement tokens in rows and rows. Surfers congregate in Kuta as it’s a beginner-friendly place to learn to surf. The beach offers long rolling waves that are conducive to the surfboard novice. The vibe is all about appreciating that lifestyle with the added bonus of incredible sunsets. It’s a great place to read a book on the sand and meet backpackers and explorers.
Motorbike to Nyu Kuning
Nyu Kuning is about 10-15 minutes from Ubud via motorbike which you can easily rent. It has sublime wooden carving. I know you’ve seen replicas of the wooden mandalas origin to Bali, headboards and hangings. In Nyu Kuning the craft of whittling wooden creatures, from animals to decorative objects, larger statues and homewares is not to be missed. You’ll surely pack a few to take home.
Canggu
Just south of Ubud and northwest of Kuta is Canggu. Recently, Canggu has become sought-after, trendy, and quaint, and rivals the culture of its northern neighbor. Placed beachside, like Kuta, travelers are drawn to the easy surf culture that it boasts. And like Ubud, travelers are magnetized to the manifold restaurants, cafes, yoga studios, and range of accommodations here. If you’re looking for a youthful demographic as well as a more youthful city, Canggu is a spot to visit.
Where to Stay: Home-style (Local Living)
The designs of homes and home compounds in Bali are sublime. They’re very symmetrical and whimsical at the same time. Traditional, beautiful, and spacious, a special attribute of Balinese homes is that multi-generationally they encompass a large courtyard where there are often fountains, statues of Hindu gods, and gardens with fragrant flowers. Nowadays crystal clear pools and little pagodas are included. They’re all-inclusive. The compound areas serve as communal meeting points, they are the back-and-forth between rooms and homes of different parties in extended families.
For these reasons, I strongly recommend a homestyle stay or Balinese huts over Western-style hotels. These sorts of stays offer a closer taste of local living. And with the richness of adorned doors, spacious rooms, and comfort that’s Balinese designed and bred. There is something about the architecture of Bali that feels consumed by an energy of contentedness.
Goa Gaja water flowing through the spouts, Image by Christian Spau
Goa Gaja
A serene temple and fountain, Goa Gaja feels like an ancient outdoor bathhouse with statues and trees of spiritual dedication. The 9th-century temple is also known as the “Elephant Cave” and has prevalence in both Balinese and Hindu culture. The stone architecture is fascinating. It’s a divine space to visit and you can even take a dip in the bath. To respect the site and religion, wear a sarong and cover your shoulders to enter, these can be obtained in and around Ubud easily.
Rice Paddy Dining
There are a plethora of rice paddy overlooks in this terraced area. The tiered four-leaf clover green, striped with bright yellows is a view you don’t want to miss in Bali. It’s appreciated all the better when leaning back and sipping on something sweet and cooling, munching on something crunchy, and crisp. I recommend trekking to higher overlooks in the mountainous paddy locations where you can get more panoramic views of the vista. Motorbikes can grant you access here. These are also favorable spots for viewing sunsets, a delightful combination, especially for those who didn’t grow up around rice paddy mountains of the tropics.
Gili Islands
A trudee, the Gili Islands make up an archipelago off of Bali. A short wavy ride over, the islands offer an even more petit island vibe than what you thought was small Bali. All islands still utilize horses and horse-drawn tuk-tuks. See them trot rhythmically parallel to the turquoise beaches.
A Trawagan resident horse ridden by a boy, Image by Federico Enni
The islands are close to one another, not quite triplets, like the three musketeers who have their own personalities. Air is the most built up and for a real excursion immersion. Meno is the middle child in between, and then third is Trawagan.
Gili Choice: Trawagan Island
Image by Tom Bixler
Image by Fajruddin Mudzakkir
The reputable party one, where Moroccan-esque pillowed dinner enclaves promises a vibe of a time.
Gili Trawangan, or Gili T, is blessed with a natural phenomenon that enchants the eyes: a rare display of bioluminescence…!
During nightfall and with the right environmental conditions, the waters of the island are vivacious. Energized with a vital glow, a surreal glow that’s enchanting. Bioluminescent plankton are dinoflagellates and they spontaneously produce this spectacle because when they’re disturbed in the waters, the organisms emit a gorgeous blue-green turquoise light. It brightens up the sea with an alien radiance that almost looks artificial. Their likewise movement leaves a residual trail of glowy luminescence, witnessing them feels like Pandora, otherworldly or of the stars.
The bioluminescent magic of Gili Trawangan is something that’s only found in a few places around the world. Here it’s a unique immersion into this little island’s waters and allows you to connect with one of the closest things to magic in a memorable way.
You don’t necessarily need to dive, you can swim, snorkel, or even take a night boat tour to behold the light show of nature’s own.
Image by Filipe Freitas
*Safety tip
While a motorbike is useful, it’s good to get practice if unaccustomed since some locations such as restaurants will be uphill. Additionally, solo travelers and single females should be cautious when riding at nighttime.
*Safety tip #2
The boat going to the Gilis from Bali can be rocky. Do not eat much if you’re prone to motion sickness, and especially don’t eat anything your body’s unused to.
Bottom line
Bali is so nice. Though it’s reasonably commercial, there is still something special and innately serene about it. Plus, being built up is not always a down, for some. There’s comfort for the American or Westerner that makes staying there easier.
The Gilis are further a bit more off-the-beaten-path, and if you find the right place to stay at the right time, it’s an unforgettable jaunt.
Both Bali and Gilis offer the Hindu intonation of Indonesian space, an engrained spirituality at its forefront, a strong ex-pat community, and adventure in all of its pockets surrounding.
