Hong Kong: Cheung Chau Island like a Local

Cheung Chau Island is a petit one in the South China Sea, just southwest of Hong Kong Island.

The little landmass is a destination for locals as much as tourists who can board the ferry right from the city center and arrive at the boat-lined dock of Cheung Chau in less than half an hour.

There are numerous islands off of the bigger Hong Kong Island.

Tai-O fishing village and Lamma Island are two popular spots that island-goers frequent. However, amidst these, I recommend Cheung Chau. Unlike the more touristic Tai-O and the super small one-road Lamma, Cheung Chau is a combination of these two: a fishing village island that’s big enough to explore on a weekend and tiny enough to feel vastly different from bustling HK.

Docked boats

Fishermen along the route to the pirate’s cave

How to Get There?

The No. 5 dock right from Hong Kong MTR in Central is the departure point for Cheung Chau Island. You pass through the turnstile with your Octopus card or purchase a separate ticket. There are two ferries, one that’s three-level and takes just under an hour, while the smaller faster ferry takes just under half an hour. The slower ferry has the option for outdoor seating and the faster one is all indoor. The ferries depart frequently but can be fairly crowded.

Once at the pier of Cheung Chau you’re greeted by a fleet of fishing boats, some junks hauled in near shore, and stands of street food that waft in every scent imaginable. Stacks of bamboo baskets are filled with dim sum and there’s carnival food like swirled skewered potato fries and sweet treats.

Where to Stay & Eat? Warwick Hotel

Dim sum damage at Warwick

Eateries along the harbor provide excellent views and fun eats. For something more relaxed and upscale, try dim sum at the Warwick Hotel. The hotel is a favorite of locals and offers cult adorations of traditional dim sum. The fried mochi balls filled with meat and BBQ buns are particularly delectable. The walk to the hotel is lovely and you’ll pass a beautiful beach and can wade in or wander alongside visitors taking it all in.

Pirate Cave or Cheung Po Tsai Cave

A highlight of the island, the Cheung Po Tsai Cave is a mysterious spot. It’s a tiny entrance of a cave within the rocks along the coast of the waters and takes about 45 minutes to walk to from the center of Cheung Chau. It’s a beautiful mini hike, the walkway is enlightened. You’ll see butterflies whirring up in the air leading the path and it’s common to see dolphins swimming along gracefully beyond the lookout points. Though not technically a hike there are some inclines.

The cave itself is a peculiar story that chronicles a pirate of the 19th century. Its presence makes the island that much more intriguing. According to legend, the cave was pirate Cheung Po Tsai’s treasure trove hideaway as well as a conspirating locale. The interior still provides dark cool chambers of stalactites and stalagmites and gives a mood to a time long gone from the seas.

Boats along the thoroughfare

Vista en route to the pirate’s cave

Cycling

There are also multi-person bicycle carts to rent and ride along the waters with. There are adorable cafes and little eateries to waltz into. There’s an entire community established on the island, so you can walk around and meander into temples, and simply see how the local life is. If hiking around by foot isn’t appealing, many who visit the island opt for multi-person bicycles or rikshaw-type riders. The island is littered with bicycles along all the sidewalks and it seems to be locals’ preference for locomotion. The main streets are quite broad and lend themselves to cycling for stretches that are longer than they seem.

Beach near Warwick

Mango Mochi

The most beloved local treat of the island is the fresh mango mochi which is special in that it’s a high ratio of mango to mochi skin with the fresh juicy mango being the star, only slimly covered in dusted rice skin. If you’ve never had fresh fruit mochi, this is entirely memorable and worth bringing back. People from HK go to Cheung Chau just for this treat.

*Safety tip

Some of the street stalls along the island only take cash. The bigger restaurants and hotels take cards, but best to bring enough HK dollars with you if you plan on perusing the shops and stalls.

The pirate cave entrance is decidedly not for the claustrophobic, even if you don’t enter the cave, the trek there is still a highlight.

Bottom line

Hong Kong is a splendid metropolis, but it is that: a metropolis. If you’re craving more subdued island vibes and beach greenery away from the buzz, Cheung Chau Island is your way to go. It has a fishing island culture that really differs from the feel of Hong Kong Island and the neighboring mainland.

At the same time, it’s big enough to pack a whole day or extended weekend of exploring into. It has breathtaking vistas walking around the island. Its options for eats and sites are excellent and it’s such an easy trip to do from the center of Hong Kong. If anything, it’s crowded with locals visiting rather than foreigners which gives testament to its appeal. It’s an absolute pleasure.

For a fully fleshed to-do of Hong Kong Island, check my post here.

School basketball court near the hotel