Mongolia’s Ulaanbaatar City: Off-The-Beaten Path

Why Mongolia?

Here’s what to know about the place that is technically the coldest capital city of the world (temperature-wise), and unofficially the warmest place in the world (hospitality-wise): entrance point to incredible adventures, environment, and people.

Choijin Temple on the left with Blue Sky on the right, Ulaanbaatar

Choijin Lama Temple, Image by Ryan Brooklyn

Ulaanbaatar, Capital City

Ulaanbaatar, otherwise broken down to “red” “hero”, is the capital city of Mongolia, a landlocked city, a landlocked country, and a truly amazing place.

Yes, it’s a bit off the beaten path. It’s extremely unique and a gateway to some of the starkest, and by starkest, I mean mesmerizing, off-road vistas of the universe.

Admittedly, when I first landed in Ulaanbaatar’s airport I wasn’t prepared for the city that Ulaanbaatar is. I, like many a tourist, was prepared to see fur-hatted men riding atop horses. I didn’t have the roster of elegant city life that Mongolia also encompasses.

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Sukhbaatar Square, Image by Altai Baatarkhuu

View of UB, Image by Uudam Mendsaikhan

Ulaanbaatar is host to almost half of the country’s entire population. Some of the capital city is semi-nomadic. They move from city to countryside season-to-season, week to weekend, time to time like many before them. There’s this perpetual buzz of momentum in and around this city.

There is just SOMETHING about it. There is energy. There is a black market. There is a bizarre taxi culture. There is a negative 30-degree temperature. There is meat. There is dairy. There is a plenitude of sunshine. There is veganism. There is Russian and Korean influence, and there is street style. There is music. There is clubbing mid-day.

From nearly a decade of immersion, here are a handful of places I recommend, particularly for a first immersion in the Mongolian steppe.

Highlights: Where to Go?

State Store, Image by Belgutei

Sukhbaatar Square

State Department Store & Sukhbaatar Square

The primary center of the city is stationed in between the State Department Store and Sukhbaatar Square.

These two locations are key for setting a good foundation in the city. This stretch between the two is on the main street of the city, Peace Avenue, and has coffee shops, restaurants, shopping, the central post office, the primary bus stop, and hotels and hostels.

It’s strange to think of a store as the center of a city, but the State Department Store is basically as such. The State Department Store is a central point and also offers things collectively many a place do not that are beneficial for foreigners. It has numerous floors of shopping kiosks, Western outdoor gear you may need, and the first floor has the Nomin Grocery where almost all of the food items you’ll be able to access in the country can be obtained.

Seoul Street

One street south parallel to the State Department Store is Seoul Street which hosts as many or more restaurants, coffee shops, and shopping centers. This is the street more frequented by locals for lifestyle. One of the most famous ex-pat spots is Grand Khaan Irish Pub, a favorite of the city for Western food and drink.

Taxi Culture

Taxi culture is important to understand in UB. The city is manageable to walk straight through as it’s simply laid out on a cardinal grid. However, it’s key to know how to deal with taxis. Taxis are any vehicle. Any vehicle can stop and give you a ride with a fare based on standardized currency per kilometer. There are fewer officially labeled taxis than informal ones, so being able to traverse with casual taxis is helpful, and saves time. You’ll want to know the standard taxi fare ahead. Cars should match the going rate for tugrik per kilometer but it’s best to know this when you’re there. This way of taxi-ing is unusual, but it’s sustainable.

Choijin Lama Temple and Museum

This is one of the sweetest spots throughout the city. It’s an ancient temple partially hidden amongst the upcoming skyscrapers in the city center and has a subdued peaceful calm about it. It’s nestled right near the Wedding Palace and the Shangri-La Hotel.

The temple has performances of traditional music and dance; being exposed to throat singing and horse-headed fiddles is also one of the most culturally impactful things to experience in the country. There’s a ger gift shop on site with treasures of Buddhism, jewelry, paintings, and such.

As a horse-devoted country, plenty of traditional accoutrements are on-site at Narantuul Market

Black Market, Narantuul Market, or Xap Zax

The black market is on the far east of the city. It’s worth traveling to, easily by bus, or taxi. It’s a sprawling feat of a place that sells everything from long underwear to animals to entire homes, unusual relics, artwork, and all kinds of Mongolian meat, food, and homewares. The street food is safe to eat. But be careful there, protect your wallet and belongings.

It’s also a location for diverse options of traditional Mongolian cashmere, camel-hair sweaters, countryside boots, leather, and more.

The main bus station on the south side across the street from the square has buses, No. 3, and No. 30 that directly go there in less than 10 minutes, otherwise, taxis will easily recognize the name.

If you’re interested in top quality and fashionable cashmere, Gobi Cashmere is Mongolia’s number one producer and designer. The largest factory store has the best deals and most versatile options, it can be found on the outskirts of the city unlike the smaller walk-ins found throughout central areas.

A candy stall at the Narantuul Black Market

Meat skewers alternating meat cuts with straight sheep fat from the open grills

Modern Nomads

One of the best restaurants that serves authentic Mongolian food is Modern Nomads. You can get all of the traditional favorites here. There are numerous locations throughout the city and delightful ambiance.

Random Basement Restaurant

For genuine non-touristy food in UB check out the tsaini gazar (tea place) near the State Department Store. You go directly east of the State Department Store across the street and continue into the courtyard compound of a series of pink Soviet apartment buildings.

There is right at the SE corner of that compound a doorway with a sign indicating restaurant overhead. The door is usually ajar. The doorway and steps down lead to a basement tea canteen where some of the best casual Mongolian food, specifically tsuivin, or fried noodles can be found. Russian-influence dishes, soups, and dumplings can also be found there.

Cherry Bakery

Korean restaurants, coffee spots, clothing stores, and the like have permeated the capital since its emergence from Soviet times. It’s all posh here and Cherry Bakery is one of the OG Korean establishments. It’s just south of the State Department Store perpendicular to it in the slim strip by the Beatles Sign. It’s labeled well and has delicious fried curry pastries, tuna seaweed rice balls, sweet bread, and drinks. It’s also a great place for youth gossip and picking up Mongolian slang if you feel like that’s something you need in your life.

California Restaurant on Seoul Street

California is one of the most established Western restaurants in the city. It’s western prices and has good large plate fare everything from pizza to hamburgers to orange chicken. It’s reminiscent of Mongolia’s version of Cheesecake Factory. It’s a nicely lit place to lay your bag and dine.

Ger Districts (Outskirts and surrounding some of the city)

The ger districts, or ger xopoolol are the unplanned outskirts of the central grid of UB. They are haphazard and extend outwards around the city. They largely encompass ger homes, the classic animal-felt tents that Mongolia’s traditional nomadic living are made of.

If you start walking from anywhere on the outer edge of what are the planned streets of UB you’ll inevitably land in one of the ger districts which surround the city, except the southern side.

Where to Stay? Novotel, Blue Sky Hotel, Idre’s Hostel, or Golden Gobi Hostel

Novotel

Novotel is a sophisticated spot in UB, an excellent curation of modern amenities. It has one of the best hotel restaurants in the city on the first floor. Centrally located without being too much in the thick of it all, it has a pool and an additional three other restaurants. Novotel is a prime nucleolus space in the city.

Blue Sky Tower

Blue Sky is one of the first luxury hotels that was built to depict the blue sails of a boat. It’s a staple piece of the city, and the closest and nicest stay to both the State Department Store and Seoul Street. It’s really at the epicenter of the city. The Tower offers excellent views. It also has a bar, coffee spot, numerous restaurants, pool, gym, and spa.

Idre’s Hostel

Idre’s is a longstanding establishment on the south side of the city. Not entirely central, the hostel overrides this in its cozy and attracts a great community. Most importantly, the hostel has both bunkbed group rooms as well as privates, and organizes tours of the country. These are exceptionally organized, well-guided, and well-driven. For backpackers eager for a great adventure of Mongolia and who are likewise budgeting, Idre’s is an excellent option.

Golden Gobi Hostel

Golden Gobi Hostel is the sister hostel to Idre’s and is maximally central right next door to the State Department Store. For hostels, it doesn’t get better than the Golden Gobi in terms of location. And, the hostel, like Idre’s, also organizes excellent tours of the country. Again, exceptionally organized, well-guided, and well-driven.

*Safety tip

Bring warmer clothing even in summertime. Like LA, there’s plenty of desert ecosystem and the altitude results in sunshine but cold temps morning and night.

If you’re venturing to local homes or homestays on a travel tour, it’s polite to bring sweets such as chocolate and candy to local families and their children.

Bottom line

Overall, Ulaanbaatar is a place that punches you in the face with empowerment and perspective. Not the typical icon of Mongolia, the capital of the country is an enlightening urban facet of nomadism and post-socialism. The city will give you an impactful feel for Mongolian history, and how the country changed, and is changing. It’s a place that sifts together elements of ancient Asia with that of unique nomadic customs and alongside the residue of Russian culture. The hints of this are evident everywhere and make for an adventurous and educational immersion into a lively city.

+ For an easy visit outside of the capital city, visit Terelj National Park! It’s one of the most accessible, rewarding natural vistas, and exposure to nomadic culture that’s not many hours outside of UB.