Ishigaki, Okinawa: Retro Japan

Why Ishigaki?

If Kyoto is like a living haiku, Ishigaki is like a vinyl track from your teenage days.

Okawa

Out of research on what beaches of Japan were worth going to Ishigaki is a clear choice following three main criteria:

  1. Environmental Beauty (out of 88 constellations including the Milky Way, 84 are visible from the skies of Ishigaki)

  2. Accessibility & Manageably

  3. The Local Food & Drink scene baby

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Smoky yakitori table-side

Ishigaki expresses in a soft glow tone like the retro track it gives the mood of. It’s easy enough to fly in from larger cities or internationally from Taiwan or Hong Kong. It’s a supreme supplement to the country of Japan and provides a particular angle to the culture in island manifestation.

Little haunt, Image by Jack Berry

Seafoam green taxi of the island, Image by Wataru Sato

Where to Stay? Beach Hotel Sunshine

Beach Hotel Sunshine is on the waters of Ishigaki’s southwestern shore on a lustrous stretch of beach. The views are immaculate and the rooms are plush. With an infinity pool and private baths as well, the Beach Hotel serves authentic Okinawan food and offers activities like bicycling, kayaking, and other water sports to take part in. The stay is particularly family-friendly.

Ferry terminal and harbor with city view

Cute old school car

Highlights

Kabira North

The north side of the island is a must for the lookout views as well as the food. I especially recommend getting lunch and ice cream at Oishisa which serves homemade noodles served most appealingly. The restaurant also has housemade ice cream with bodacious flavors such as cheese, brown sugar, peanut, and local beer.

Oishisa noodles, Kabira

Chirashi bowl at Shin-eicho

Oishisa ice cream counter, Kabira

Sea Story Ishigakijima

Sea Story Ishigakijima is a local spot to experience the traditional dance and music of Ishigaki Island. It’s a cute tiki-esque locale that serves cold brew and sake, and delicious island fare. There are unique items here. While you eat you witness the song and dance, drumming, and costumes of native Ishigaki. It gives an authentic immersion to the island’s own indigenous culture, something that feels special to behold.

Fun fact, the island’s culture is undeniably very island Japanese. However, due to its proximity to Taiwan, it has elements of the neighbor etched into it as well. It was administered by Taiwan in the 19th Century and this previous influence is recognizable in the slight fusions of architecture as well as the foods.

Kimono Style

One of the most delightful experiences on the island is getting fully fitted with traditional kimonos. If you’re curious but have never been regaled in a real kimono, the intricacies and hair with flowers, the bolts of various fabrics, and even the un-walkable platform sandals are fascinating to try on.

Karaoke

One element of nightlife that the island shares with its Tokyo alter ego is karaoke. Like the minibars and karaoke basements of the cities, Ishigaki hosts an unusual amount of little karaoke enclaves, bars with karaoke attached, and karaoke with robust bars. Locals partake in full and singalongs occur on the regular. This is an endearing part of the social milieu, and the island’s style.

Karaoke spots abound

With the best snacks and drinks all the while

Kabira Bay

Located on the northwest coast, the bay is a quintessential spot on the island. The lush surroundings of the bay and the astounding water’s hues invite walks along the beach or views from the observation deck. Another way to appreciate the bay is out on the water in a glass-bottomed boat where you can get glimpses of the marine life. However, important to note, is that, unlike the Southside which has ample swimming beaches, the bay is an ecologically preserved area, and swimming and water activities are not allowed there.

Beach lookout Kabira

Beaches

Maezato Beach on the southside is a public one that has a long stretch. It has brilliant waters, is great for wading and swimming in, and for long rockway strolls. The resort on its shores has provisions for while you sunbathe and play. Fusaki Beach on the west side is another one with a hotel backdrop. It hosts likewise pristine views, wide and long stretches of soft sand, and lookout spots. The beach is of particularly calm waters and is the most family-friendly. Yonehara Beach on the northside is your spot for snorkeling and reef life visitations.

*Safety tip

I recommend having a Google translator or a translation mechanism prepared which will help get to local hot spots. People on the island tend to speak less English than in major cities but you’ll want to be able to communicate as much as possible.

Bottom line

Ishigaki Island is chock-full of personality and flavor, a kind of 90s nostalgia and contentedness that only small islands encompass. If you love Japan’s megacities and the nuances there, Ishigaki is not something to be missed. The combination of Japanese culture with beach energy is something intriguingly quirky and precious. The natural beauty of the island is unkept. The food haunts and treats are infused with place and quality. If you’re mesmerized by the tiny bars of Tokyo, have an obsession with ramen, or have adored the Samurai and Geisha legacies, Ishigaki will give a new spirited angle to all that Japanese culture is.

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