Hong Kong Island, a southern area of China that’s technically an administrative region of China, yet also so distinctive unto itself.

Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated places in the world and it’s notable in this vertical mecca.

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There’s a clip to the urban tundra of this financial city with citizens bustling up long escalators and standing in even longer lines at the MTR. That being said there are also tortoise-paced elderly who are unbothered by any ruckus and who seem to have seen it all. They don’t mind the crowds jostling on the sidewalks and their time sets another tone in the easy eateries that serve bitter milk tea in Black & White mugs over gargantuan buns of savory make.

For such a concentrated island area there is a matching substance of shops and neighborhood personalities. There’s a gigantic embrace of cafe culture amongst the young, and an appreciation for good food overall. There are antique Chinese relic spots of jade and porcelain, upscale shopping centers, Michelin-recommended spots hidden up alleys, high tea served at the top of skyscrapers, and temples air thick with swirling incense.

There are also nice outdoor spots throughout the cityscape and overlooks within and nearby to the city center.

For a good dose of HK culture, here’s a roster of highlights.

(Cover Image Mon Kok area by Gigi)

Sheung Wan Shopping

Sheung Wan is the neighborhood with Chinese collection wares. This includes brass statues that look curated for museums and shelves of traditional vases with ornate decoration. There are spots you must ring a bell to enter, and at the same time quirky vintage alcoves that sell old telephones and coke bottles. The area I recommend traversing in this neighborhood is Upper Lascar Row, Cat Street, and Hollywood Centre.

These areas have the most visual candy and things to both take in culturally as well as peruse iconic vintage breakables, brass, and tokens to bring home. A lot of these spots are petit places that fit three people and may have a white-haired grandfather dozing on his stool before he summons awake to pour himself another cup of tea.

Sheung Wan: Man Mo Temple

Also in Sheung Wan, Man Mo Temple is a historical and supreme landmark of Hong Kong. It’s one of the city’s oldest and is a site for foreign visitation. This, alongside being an active place for locals who come to pray regularly. Its deities are Man Cheong the Literature God and Mo Tai the Martial God. The temple is for those who are in scholarly pursuit, activities of war, or seeking peace in times of conflict.

The architecture of the temple has wood carvings and pastel tile accents. It hosts different areas with specific deity representations and from the ceiling hangs large coils of incense that continue to burn and provide an ethereal interior feel.

The temple is a busy place and yet invokes a quietude at the same time. Bright red on the inside like the lucky color of HK, it’s a special destination.

PMQ Space

As carved at PMQ’s entrance: “Space is the breath of art” -Frank Lloyd Wright

PMQ is a large multi-faceted and multi-level building. Not solely an art space, not specifically a retail space, it’s a blended version of the two with thought-out boutiques and spaces of design. It’s also known as the Police Married Quarters, its name is derived from its previous purpose which served as a housing facility for married police officers and their families.

With various blocks, a courtyard, and a connecting bridge, the space has been renovated to promote local works of creativity. It functions for designers, artists, and emerging entrepreneurs to sell and promote their work. In addition to boutiques the space houses workshops, exhibitions, pop-ups, galleries, and restaurants. As you walk the shops and levels you’ll come across a professional photography shoot next to a delightful Columbian accessories store next to local jewels next to a bamboo clothing spot. The mood at PMQ feels grounded in community connectivity. You’ll likely find trinkets there to tote home.

Central: The Peak Tram

There’s no better place to see the view of Hong Kong than from the Peak, probably the most notable spot for visitors. The Peak Tram begins in Central where you take a tram only a few minutes up to the height of the city’s hill. Up there, there is a whole shopping center with cafes of rose lattes and egg waffles, a Madame Tussauds Museum, and the most rewarding view of the city.

To reach the lookout at the highest outdoor rooftop, you’ll need to purchase another ticket in addition to the tram. The view is worth it. However, the second-tier deck where restaurants are also has a walk around with pagodas and a nice green hike; it grants panoramic views of the below city, not quite as impressive as the top-tier, but wonderful nonetheless.

The tram lines can be quite long, be prepared for crowds especially on the weekends.

Where to Eat? Wan Chai

Wan Chai is a favorite neighborhood on the island. The food culture is authentic. It’s catered to the local population for food and shopping, rather than catered to foreigners such as parts of Central or Sheung Wan.

Here, you’ll find those boothed walk-ins that serve staple Hong Kong food. The milk tea is a must and you can get soups and noodles, mixed rice dishes, and buns of sweet sugar topping or with marinated meats. Waiters slide your order across the tables and tuck the bill under the glass surface. They leave you to satiate while the room continues to buzz.

Honolulu Cafe on Hennessy Street is always full of locals and serves Hong Kong diner breakfasts. The buns are particularly good. Victoria A Cafe is another local establishment that serves piping hot curry bowls, Malaysian fare, and delicious noodle bowls and soups.

For the Michelin-recommended, go to Keung Kee, a notorious clay pot and rice rolls spot. It’ll have lines but serves beloved clay pot rice quickly as well as famous desserts. Kam’s Goose is great for groups and serves various fresh and juicy sauced-up meats.

For coffee, the Petite Salon Cafes pop around the city and are just that, super petit cafes that serve quality coffee, specialties such as ginger lattes and whisked-up mochas.

For shopping and cafes to lounge at around Wan Chai, check out Star Street. Kapok is an endearing spot with streetwear and versatile house accessories.

Where to Stay? The Hari Hotel

In Wan Chai men in suits kneel to pour wine into tea cups in front of the shrine of their bank’s establishment. Owners of home goods stores stand by the entrance taking in the scene as much as anyone else. There aren’t mass tourists walking beneath brand names here. It’s simpler, more established and purposeful for residents of the area.

Intro in The Hari Hotel blends into all of this with politeness and melodic authority. The interior is a match and a contrast to the bustle with a solemn elegance. This is a place that feels chic business casual and murder mystery core at the same time.

With two restaurants on-site, it offers Japanese upscale at the Zoku Restaurant as well as Italian at the Lucciola Restaurant, and the food is as classy as the interior spatiality. The room service menu is limited but I highly suggest this location next to more commercial areas. The guest services are immaculate and it’s a crisply playful spot for both repose and immersion into HK island.

West Kowloon: M+ Museum & Art Park

West Kowloon is the tip of China's mainland across HK island and is dedicated to an art park of museums.

It comprises a walkway with views of Victoria Harbour across the waters. There are food trucks and a walkaround sidewalk that gives perspective to where you are in the harbor. If you’re looking for views of HK island panorama style, this is the place to go. Within this area is the impressive M+ museum with a focus on visual and contemporary art. Its architecture alone is worth the venture.

M+ interior includes stark industrial combined with pointed whimsical lines and curvature. Its artwork houses provocative expressions of Hong Kong’s history and its relation to the surrounding world. Temporary exhibitions are worth checking out and are excellently featured. Such focus as Madam Song’s vogue influence in getting Chinese women from factory work into the fashion world is just one example.

*Safety tip

Hong Kong seemingly has numerous seasons even in one day. I suggest bringing layers, especially at different altitudes like the Peak or the outer smaller islands.

Also, remember to remove your shoes before entering households as this is still and very commonplace etiquette.

In terms of public transportation, the MRT and bus Octopus card can be obtained easily at the airport and recharged at the stations. They can be further used as debit cards in areas such as the ferry or even at restaurants and cafes.

For taxis, they only take cash so be forewarned of that.

Alternatively, I was recommended to use the Grab app which is like the locally utilized Uber or Lyft. However, I also found that the drivers of Grab were less knowledgeable both on whereabouts as well as of English as compared to Taxi drivers, so that’s something to note.

Little Taoist shrines throughout the city’s nooks

Bottom line

I’d long heard of Hong Kong with its towering skyscrapers careening towards the harbor. And seen the vistas that the unusual island promised. Hong Kong was what people present it as and at the same time something both simpler and much deeper.

It is an island but it also includes areas such as West Kowloon which are still a part of mainland China. It’s an urban metropolis and the pace in the city is swift. And there’s an old guard of HK made up of even older-than-Boomers of the West who take their time doing things how they do. They sell tinctures and medicinals in stalls, relics that are dusty and worth a fortune. While there is a bursting young culture that reflects the avante-garde artistry as well as the financial hub status, both of which HK is known for. There is as much to eat at a tiny hole in the wall as a Michelin spot, there is as much reverence at temples as at museums. There is a range of shopping galore, and naked nature at islands to explore. HK is a concentration of plenty. I’m still wrapping my head around it.

For further intel on where to stay: the Hari Hotel, check my post here.