Why Cambodia?

Cambodia is a place of paradox. Predominantly, there’s Angkor Wat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the ancient temple relics of its bygone kingdom. There are lazy sumptuous beaches with fresh seafood. And there’s the residue of the recent Khmer Rouge genocide.

(Cover image by Sebastian Latorre)

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap. Original image by Lorentiu Morariu

Angkor Wat Temples

The temples in Siem Reap are of multitudes, they geographically exist like a defunct kingdom, but one woven of mysteries and Hindu etchings. They were built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman and the temple takes up over 400 acres. It’s in dedication to the god Vishnu while additional walls and story galleries are of the mega Mahabharata and Ramayana stories.

The temples themselves make one feel like you’re in some sort of Nat Geo documentary or Tomb Raider movie which was actually filmed at one temple here being digested by banyan trees.

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Banyon Temple

Bayon Temple pictured below is in the area of Angkor Thom and is high on many visitor’s agenda. It’s one of those knocking sensations to remember providing a visceral awe impacted by an old stone temple being covered and cowed by branches of an overgrown tree. This area also hosts the Elephant Gate which is another popular and intriguing site.

To give an idea of the size of the temples, they once comprised a living city. So their expanse is spread out. In this vein, it’s worthwhile to hire an informed driver or a guide who doubles to help narrate what you’re experiencing at this majestic place. This can include either renting a vehicle or an open-air tuk-tuk for the day or hour to hour. Alternatively, riding bicycles to the temples is also an activity that’s common among some.

Angkor Wat Temple. Original image by Lukas Maznica

How to Angkor

We hired a tuk-tuk for a day which is affordable and allows temple visitations chosen in interest. Motorbikes or cars can also be hired if bigger in a group, and official guides as well. This is rather than walking and tiring out before seeing everything on your agenda.

Another pro about hiring a tuk-tuk is that it can be hot and to get a feel for the temples, visiting them requires climbing in and around. Having a vehicle to transport from one spot to the next allows for a more in-depth experience at the temple sites.

Lonely Planet has recommended 3 1/2 hours to half a day allocated for Angkor. We spent almost a whole one traversing the sites, taking photos, stopping at food stalls to sit and eat. The food around the temples is decent and there are mini-market stalls in between the temple sites themselves that sell simple fare, fried noodles and such.

Fun Facts of Angkor

One interesting thing is that the architecture and story mythology carved into Angkor’s spots are derived from Hinduism, a religion not primarily extant in Cambodia. The temples and their integrity are no longer lived in, alive, and the whole decaying beauty of them is such a fascination.

Another unique aspect of Cambodia that most people don’t know is their tradition of using numismatic charms as a form of currency.

In Cambodia, in rural areas especially, there is a long-standing practice of using little metal amulets, charms basically, called "kongkea" instead of or alongside regular money. These are made of brass or other metal and have various size formations that come into shape such as animals, deities, and geometric design.

The foundation of kongkea as a used form of Cambodian currency is in folklore and spiritual beliefs of traditional culture. In these, people believed that the charms held protective as well as auspicious containments. They could bestow luck to people as well as deter bad luck, holding further meaning beyond the actuality of currency.

What’s fascinating about the charms is that their value fluctuated like currency of any such value. The craftsmanship and rarity of the charms as well as what individual meaning was imbibed within them were taken into account per transaction.

While they’re not legally recognized as tender, they hold cultural significance as well as symbolic value within certain communities still.

This practice of kongkea as a form of currency is a material manifestation to highlight the culture and spirituality that has perpetuated to shape Cambodian people. They serve as a testament to the richness of folklore that propels Cambodia as a society.

Along with its architecture, another surviving element of Cambodia is a traditional dance called "Lakhon Khol." Lakhon Khol is a masked dance drama fusion that incorporates acting with dance. Its origins are in the royal courts of Cambodia from the time of Angkor itself and were performed by males who dressed to depict characters from ancient epics and legends.

During the Khmer Rouge, Lakhon Khol was almost lost during the 1970s as the genocide sought to eradicate arts and culture like other genocides ideologies beforehand. Many artists and performers were killed along with their knowledge and craft of Lakhon Khol.

Currently, the traditional dance is recognized as a keepsake of the nation, noted on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Its resurgence stands to bring awareness to the importance of preserving traditional arts to be passed through the generations.

Where to Stay? Angkor Rithy Boutique Group

Angkor Rithy is a few miles from the temples, a delightful stay with boutique accents. It’s a locally adorned stay and caters to those who crave comfort for travels here. It offers a delicacy of the heritage of the Khmer culture.

Phnom Phen

On the flip from Angkor is Phnom Phen, the capital of Cambodia after Angkor got demoted from the title in the 1400s.

Depending on where you’re arriving from, you might land in the capital first, or choose to visit following Siem Reap.

Along Dusty Roads blog posted an informative piece regarding visits to the Killing Fields and genocide museum, I suggest checking out what they’ve organized. Visiting both Killing Fields and the museum are overall informative thought-provoking experiences. To me, they built a sense of compassion for what the country has gone through, and the preservation and perseverance of what stands today. I think that to appreciate anything is to appreciate where it came from. While somber and not for all, there is a historical insight into these two visits that have shaped both recent Phnom Phen as well as Cambodia overall.

Where to Stay? Pavilion

Pavilion is an elevated space with a spa, and pools, and catered to adults only. It’s a concentrated and beautiful layout, its refuge within the business of Phnom Phen. The location is also central to museums and temples within the city. I recommend staying only a day or two within Phnom Phen and saving more of your time for Siem Reap.

Sihanoukville, Cambodia. Image by Anneget Kammer

Sihanhoukville (Beach Vibe)

Sihanoukville is a final recommendation which is on the southwest coast of the country. It’s a beach area that effuses a different angle of the country of Cambodia. Find a spot on the beach and enjoy fruit and seafood from the same area…relax. If you want a time of repose after adventuring, this is the spot to lay for a few days.

We rented motorbikes for days and were able to explore the area, decompress on hammocks hanging on the beaches, and sample local food beachside.

As far as beach areas of Southeast Asia go, Sihanoukville is one of the more enjoyable. Many a traveler revel in its affordable prices of ocean-front stays, and there’s a tame vibe about the area. The area is catered to travelers but it’s not a brazen beach culture, it’s more mellow and entrenched in being a decompressing zone.

*Safety tip

Remember hydration during the temples while you’re touring.

Also important before traveling to Cambodia is checking for vaccine recommendations via the CDC such as malaria.

Bottom line

Cambodia is alluring and multi-layered. If anything else, the country is worth traveling to explore the Temples of Angkor alone. They’re something grand in this world. The capital is likewise fascinating and the beaches of the country are calmly sweet. Experiencing the country as a whole also invokes a perspective of what humanity can trundle through. There is stillness in the encapsulation of its ancient culture, and there is a resounding aspiration in the Cambodia of today. The country is one of paradox, resilience, and magnificent.

Cambodia